By Deepika on May 10th 2024
Welcome to the new Featured Company series on PatternReview. A pattern from an Independent Designer is more than what's in the envelope. They put a lot more of themselves in their patterns. In this episode I am chatting with Molly Hamilton of Folkwear Patterns.
The Story
Located right outside of Asheville, NC, Folkwear creates sewing patterns based on authentic ethnic and vintage garments. Sewing instructions are easy to follow, and include traditional finishing details, handwork, and pattern lore. What distinguishes this independent pattern company from others, is not only their commitment to drafting and producing patterns for clothing worn around the world, but also educating others about the tradition of textiles and clothing and traditional handwork used in those garments. Folkwear was founded in 1976 by three women in California who loved to travel and their passion for finely crafted ethnic clothing. Molly Hamilton bought Folkwear pattern company in 2016.
In this interview via zoom Deepika and Molly chat about the history of the company, and where it is headed now. We also talked about the versatility of Folkwear patterns.
I hope you enjoy this interview on our YouTube Channel.
In a fun show and tell, Molly shows the many different ways to style the most popular pattern - 129 Japanese Jacket.
Finally we talk about cultural appreciation and how we can all learn about other cultures in a respectful way while we sew these garments. Each Folkwear pattern comes with a brief description of the garment and how it is worn around the world.
I hope you enjoy this very special interview.
On PatternReview, we carry the entire line of Folkwear patterns, many of which are also available in PDF format.
Celebrate
Celebrate Folkwear Patterns all week long with us by posting reviews, buying and sewing with her patterns. Scroll down to find a giveaway!
My Vision
My vision behind doing these interviews is not only to promote small sewing businesses but also to shed some light on the very real struggles we go through. A day in the life of a small business owner can vary greatly. Your support in reading this, buying patterns, sewing with them, subscribing to our Youtube channel will help PatternReview and Folkwear Patterns. Thank you! Please click below to watch the interview. If you like these interviews, please do subscribe to our channel and drop a comment below. It will make my day!
A Giveaway!
Have you sewn with Folkwear Patterns? Which one is your favorite? Are you excited to try them? Have you learned about other cultures from using these patterns? Tell us which pattern you'd pick as your first pattern from this company in the comments below and we will enter you into a raffle to win a free Folkwear Pattern of your choice! Giveaway ends on Thursday, May 16th midnight eastern time.
Shop for Folkwear Patterns on PatternReview
Related Links
Folkwear Patterns on PatternReview
Folkwear Patterns Reviews in the Gallery
Bestselling Folkwear Patterns mentioned in the interview
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40 Comments
swimsewcook said...(5/20/24 at 1:00 PM ET)
I made the Prairie Dress for myself when I was in 9th grade, way back in the 1970s. I made it short enough to wear for school, from a small calico print. I loved it! Many years later, I made the same pattern for my each of my daughters when they were reading Little House in the Big Woods and we would visit the local living history 1880s farm museum. Those same dresses also found use in a middle school production of Oklahoma! I love Folkwear Patterns.
MzPen said...(5/18/24 8:32 AM ET)
I've admired Folkwear patterns for years and had no idea they're in my home state of North Carolina! I made a Gibson Girl blouse, must have been in the 1980s. It was very challenging, but I took my time and it turned out beautifully and is one of my all-time favorites. I still have that blouse somewhere. Guess I'm holding onto it with the delusion that one day I'll fit into it again. I have the pattern for an Afghan Dress, and one day - hopefully soon - I'm going to make one.
TinaC said...(5/17/24 11:05 AM ET)
I inherited 4 Folkwear patterns from my mom. So far I've made 3: 148 Black Forest Smock with antique linen for a RenFest costume; 205 Gibson Girl Blouse for a Victorian party; 119 Saroulles. The final pattern I haven't made yet is the 107 Afghan Dress. They are well written and I love the paper they're printed on -- so sturdy.
Altivo said...(5/16/24 7:04 AM ET)
Folkware patterns are interesting and well written, but hard to find and buy when compared to the big names. They also seem to be following the industry wide trend of ignoring or reducing to zero any pattern designs for men.
siviaharding said...(5/15/24 7:17 PM ET)
I've been a fan for many years! The Nepali blouse I made in the 80s is still one of my favorite garments. I am now beginning on a hand sewing journey and I am a weaver, and I would love to try the Ghanian smock in handwoven fabric!
Patternhoarder said...(5/15/24 4:27 PM ET)
I've made the Big Sky Skirt a couple of times. It converts from long (below the knee) culottes to a skirt(at least in the front view) (a la Dale Evan's) by means of a clever flap. "We wouldn't want our menfolk to think we were pants wearing hussies". That was the intriguing way the pattern was introduced years ago. I'd like to try the Korean Hanbok.
jillyon said...(5/15/24 4:07 PM ET)
I'm an historic costumer and just started sewing in '21. One of my first attempts was the Folkwear Walking Skirt: good instructions, it came out well and the garment is so versatile! I made it in linen, but any sturdy fabric would work. Many thanks.
jellybeanie said...(5/15/24 2:33 PM ET)
I made the 114 Chinese Jacket for my daughter for an Anime Convention in NYC last year. The sewing instructions were very well written, and the jacket turned out perfectly. I want to sew 224 Beautiful Dreamer for myself, and as a quilter, have always loved the 106 Turkish Coat.
Joy sews said...(5/15/24 1:53 PM ET)
Just last week I was telling my engineer husband about sewing lessons learned in the 80s. I did the garden party dress with some beautiful lavender voile and white crocheted lace. Well I didn't pre-shrink the lace and you can imagine what happened. I did get to wear it once or twice before I washed it the first time love that dress it was beautiful.
SewRosemary said...(5/15/24 1:17 PM ET)
Folkwear patterns are so unique. I made the 106 Turkish Coat as a heavy winter coat and love it! I'm glad that Molly bought the company and is continuing the collection.
BriarRose said...(5/15/24 12:53 PM ET)
I bought the afghan nomad dress at the end of the seventies, and it remains my favorite of all patterns offered. The resort kaftan 280 is high on the list of patterns I'd like to add to my collection. I had one in the late seventies and early eighties that I literally wore to threads.
Sanibelle said...(5/15/24 11:53 AM ET)
The Thai blouse (#134) is one of my very favorite patterns. Not only is it fun to sew due to the unusually shaped pattern pieces, it's as comfortable as a pyjama top to wear. I've enjoyed reading everyone's comments here on their favorite patterns!
hywelda said...(5/15/24 11:21 AM ET)
I have used and sewn with Folkwear patterns for many years now. I have found that they fit effortlessly into my wardrobe and are exceptionally comfortable - unlike so many from other pattern companies! And I also enjoy them because I feel if I am going to sew something, let's make it fun and unique - and not just another T-shirt -lol!
JeanineA said...(5/15/24 11:06 AM ET)
Loved the interview and the beautiful garments featured. I am a big fan of the cultural appreciation and would love to try my hand at many of the patterns, but I am very drawn to the panel coat she showed in the interview. It seems like you could do so many different variations, depending on the fabric choices!
KathyinAZ said...(5/15/24 11:02 AM ET)
Thank you Deepika for this interview! I loved getting to know Molly would love to visit her store sometime - especially since she also has fabric! I'm so excited about the Rosie the Riveter pattern. I'm 6'1" with a 36" inseam, so…..I can't wait to make the jumpsuit (adorable) and the wide leg pant (awesome), hemmed to the proper length!
MariposaKat said...(5/15/24 10:42 AM ET)
I'd love to make the Turkish Dancer pattern. Folkwear Patterns has many appealing designs, but I haven't sewn any of them yet.
Cathy93614 said...(5/15/24 10:25 AM ET)
I love Folkwear Patterns because they combine two of my favorite things, sewing and history. I've made the Gibson Girl Blouse, Edwardian Skirt, Chinese Jacket (with large embroidery on the back), Smoking Jacket for my brother, Little Kittel and Japanese Field Clothing. My absolute favorite and the one that gets the mist compliments is the 1940's suit with the wide collar. The collar is in leopard print and the jacket a red plaid…. Oh my it's so much fun to wear. I have toyed with the idea of sewing all the Folkwear patterns I have collected by matching them with all the treasured stash fabrics. Needless to say I love these patterns.
Deepika replied...(5/15/24 11:39 AM ET)
Wow, I love that you have created a whole wardrobe with FW patterns. Please do write reviews of these projects and share them with the PR community. Not only does that provide inspiration, but also helps promote this great company.
Michelle53 said...(5/15/24 10:05 AM ET)
I discovered Folkwear patterns not long after they came on the market. I started collecting them and now have not all of them but dozens of them. I have made them for myself, for others, and as costumes for theater productions. They are my favorites. For myself. I made the prairie dress as a nightgown when I was nursing my sons. The oldest is almost 40 now so you know I've been using these for a while. I made a wonderful Gaza address as a summer bathrobe and a Victorian vest for myself that I wish still fit. I haven't given up on that, but I'm not placing money on whether I'll ever be able to wear it again. Such a wonderful company and I think Molly has done a tremendous job in bringing it back.
Deepika replied...(5/15/24 11:40 AM ET)
Michelle, please write reviews of some of the projects you have made using these patterns. It will really help promote this great pattern company and shine a bright light on these wonderful patterns.
peacechick said...(5/15/24 9:09 AM ET)
The first Folkwear pattern I ever sewed was the Prairie Dress over 40 years ago. I've sewn many Folkwear patterns over the years for my daughter and myself.
Cinknit said...(5/15/24 8:43 AM ET)
I've made the Japanese Hapi coat twice. It's a perfect beginner pattern. I aspire to make the Armistice Blouse with hand embroidery on the center front panel. Both of these pattern were purchased when the company was in CA. Perhaps it's time to start the blouse….
Lebaggett said...(5/15/24 8:42 AM ET)
Love Folkwear even as a little girl with no sewing experience of her own... I've always loved the Gibson Girl blouse, which is great for beginners.
PeachieC said...(5/15/24 8:08 AM ET)
I've only recently found Folkwear patterns and love how they celebrate different cultures. I'm drawn to the Egyptian Shirt, and would sew it in linen: :)
mgreene said...(5/15/24 7:56 AM ET)
Over the years I have made the Nepali top numerous times. It is a timeless piece that I dress up and down. I also have made the many of the Japanese patterns. I collect the patterns mainly because of the gorgeous graphic covers
Tiger B said...(5/14/24 5:46 PM ET)
I'm very grateful that Folkwear has expanded the size range on so many of their patterns. I recently made two Moroccan Djellabas for myself and my husband very successfully. I'd love to try my hand at 252, the Beach Pyjamas.
SewPerfect said...(5/14/24 3:26 PM ET)
I've loved Folkwear patterns ever since they hit the market! They were just so different from anything I'd seen before. I loved reading the pattern descriptions, a good learning experience for someone less traveled. Over the years I've made many of them - including the Kinsdale Cloak (first one), Japanese Field Clothing pants, the Syrian dress, the Prairie dress, Black Forest Smock, the children's pattern, the Austrian Dirndl and others I don't recall at the moment. My favorite? That's a hard decision but I'll go with the Japanese field pants because they are so comfy and can be used as anything - pj's to dressy occasions, just change the fabric! If I were to win a pattern, I'd have to go with 'Le Smoking' jacket, I've always thought the styling is beautiful.
Cupid Dog said...(5/11/24 2:31 PM ET)
Massive nostalgia for me. I sewed the blouse (View B) from 211 Two Middies and the frilly shirt from 217 Poet's Shirt in the 1980s. 202 Victorian Shirt was the first shirt I sewed for my DH (out of unbleached cotton). My sewing queue includes: 114 Chinese jacket, 134 South Asian Tops (because of the silk that must be sewn soon), 205 Gibson Girl Blouse and 247 Lindy Dress. I have loved and adored these patterns all my sewing life. All the artistic possibilities. I'm so happy that this lovely independent company continues to foster our creative minds. My wish list for future buys is 212 5 Frontier Shirts (because Dad) and 210 Armistice Blouse (there have been some really lovely versions posted here on SPR). Thanks for the video!
Rima said...(5/11/24 9:35 AM ET)
I have been aware of Folkwear Patters for a long time. But it was AuntShel's review of 106 Turkish Coat that made me understand how these patterns could be a joyous addition to my everyday wardrobe.
Wonderly said...(5/11/24 8:38 AM ET)
Thank you for this interview! Folkwear Patterns are so unique! I learn a bit about other cultures and historic clothing just from browsing their patterns. I think my two favorite patterns include A Lady's Chemise and the Egyptian Shirt. I want to make both of these in a soft cotton or linen fabric.
quiltfixer said...(5/11/24 6:33 AM ET)
I love Folkwear patterns and have been using them since the seventies. I've made at least 25 different ones over the years. If I had to pick a favorite, it would be Jewels of India, which I've traced off to make so many times for so many people that I had to get a new copy!
Raffey1 said...(5/10/24 9:39 PM ET)
I made the Edwardian undergarments for my honeymoon --so pretty!
anselm96 said...(5/10/24 8:57 PM ET)
I made Folkwear Patterns' Child's Australian Drover's Coat several years ago for Halloween when my son wanted to be Doc Brown, as outfitted for the wild west adventure of "Back to the Future 3." My son absolutely loved it, and I was really glad I had included the optional leg tabs because he later wore the coat when riding his bike.
As for a Folkwear pattern I'd like to try, for myself… maybe the Poet's Shirt, if I'm feeling like doing something safe, although if I'm more daring, the Paris Promenade Dress looks like an intriguing project.
ellepark said...(5/10/24 7:48 PM ET)
I have wanted the 14-button/lace-up back authentic navy pants pattern for a long time. I have a vintage pair of these pants and just love them. Always wanted to make another pair.
MelissaB in WA said...(5/10/24 5:52 PM ET)
So many variety! I have never sewn a Folkwear pattern before, but love the Empire dress
Camerio said...(5/10/24 3:51 PM ET)
I have the Gibson Girl blouse pattern. I have always been intrigued by this brand of pattern.
katedid said...(5/10/24 3:44 PM ET)
I love the Armistice blouse 210. Have had it for a long time now and plan to make soon.
SewsAndGrows said...(5/10/24 3:35 PM ET)
210 Armistice Blouse!
suzanneflies said...(5/10/24 3:13 PM ET)
111 Nepali blouse
Sandy Madon said...(5/10/24 2:48 PM ET)
I would love to make the Japanese jacket. It lends itself to many variations with beautiful fabrics.